Probably the most curious presentation at NYFW, which kicks off today, is Heron Preston’s recycled clothing collaboration with New York’s Department of Sanitation. Preston, well known for projects with Nike and Yeezy, is joining a recent wave of artists and designers who are using their creative platforms for good (see also: Marilyn Minter and Marc Jacobs’ recent work for Planned Parenthood). With UNIFORM, a limited-run collection of repurposed DSNY gear (with fresh graphics and embroidery layered over existing artwork), Preston is hoping to bring attention to DSNY’s 0x30 initiative, which aims to eliminate the need to send waste to landfills by 2030. And with a guest list including the likes of Kim, Kanye, and Rita Ora, attention won’t be an issue.
We caught up with Preston before tonight’s event to ask him about his latest collab and his show venue, the brand-new eco-friendly (and until tonight, publicly restricted) Salt Shed in downtown New York.
How did this collaboration come about?
It was a lot of things that had built up inside me that kind of collided. I’ve always been into service workers and their uniforms, and wanted to redesign them. Recently I’d been challenging myself to question what it is that I care about and how I can incorporate it into what I’m doing to make a living. When I was in Ibiza last summer, this piece of trash brushed up against me in the water and I had this epiphany. This is what I care about: keeping the environment clean. Like, “Oh shit.” And the DSNY just clicked; it’s a uniformed force that cares about the same things that I do. They have “Don’t Litter” printed on their trucks.
So you reached out to them?
I was super inspired and started researching the department to see if they’d done something artistic like this before. If I approached them with this idea, would they even understand me? I went to this talk that was hosted by their in-house anthropologist, Robin Nagle.
They have an in-house anthropologist…?
Yeah! It’s crazy. It’s a position that was created by Robin herself, who’s also a New Yorker and super fascinated by the department. She wanted to study them from the inside and went through all of the steps and tests for becoming a sanitation worker. At her talk she presented one of the city’s artists-in-residency, Muriel Laderman Ukeles. She did this year-long public-art performance in the late 70s called Touch Sanitation where she shook the hands of every sanitation worker in the city saying, “Thank you for keeping New York City alive.” When I saw that, I was like, “Holy shit!” So I eventually got in touch and I sat down with them.
Did you already have the uniform idea figured out?
I had this whole presentation put together. I wanted to reprint the department’s branding on vintage tees. Using the money raised by each shirt sold, I’d gift a sanitation worker a brand-new redesigned uniform as a way of saying, “Thank you.” Plus using recycled clothes reinforces the idea of sustainability. Then they suggested we kick it off during fashion week and use the event to educate New Yorkers about DSNY initiatives like 0x30.
Can you tell me more about 0x30?
The DSNY has all of these programs that New Yorkers don’t know about. Like, they have this initiative where a unit can be installed in your building so you can donate your clothes to Housing Works. They’re also rolling out these colored bins which will help educate New Yorkers on where to put waste. That’s part of what the organization is for, educating New Yorkers on getting to zero waste.
Where did the clothing you repurposed come from?
Robin sent out an APB or an all-points bulletin — which is a radio message that’s also used by the police — to New York’s 59 Department of Sanitation stations. A week or two later, I started receiving all kinds of donations. I went to the Goodwill and Housing Works warehouses in Queens where there were huge piles of clothes donated by New Yorkers to pick through. After I got all of the creative approved — you can imagine how long it takes for a brand-new idea within a government agency — I really only had time to add extra screen printing or embroidery. So it’s like artwork on top of artwork. I just printed: “Department of Sanitation” on the back and on the front: “Heron Preston for DSNY.” Where the graphics fell on top of the existing artwork is kind of cool. Everything is super fresh. I tried to keep it easy to wear and dope for everyone.
What can guests expect for the event?
There’s no runway; it’s more of an exhibition-style presentation. Posters of the lookbook will be placed all around the venue and there’ll be racks showing the collection. It’s a buy-now, wear-now concept.
Tell me about the venue.
It’ll be the first time that the public is invited inside of the Salt Shed, which literally houses the tons of salt used on New York’s streets during winter — and for a fashion event at that. It’s a restricted zone. It’s tripping the department out; they don’t get why people care about them or want their uniforms. They’re as excited as I am. They’re down to make this dream come true.
The shed is also pretty sustainable, right?
It’s super eco-friendly and was designed by this award-winning architect. The roof is slanted to collect rainwater which is then used for plumbing. It also has fins that move with the sun and create for shade for the building. So they really turnt it up for the DSNY. I think the neighbors didn’t want a garbage building next to them and motivated the architects to create something beautiful. So they crushed it and put in the coolest piece of architecture in downtown Manhattan.
It’s great to see artists and designers speaking up about social issues.
This is something I care about, why hide it? Why don’t more designers do stuff like his? It doesn’t mean you have to start a crusade or turn into a hippie. It’s just that you can do your part. I know how to make clothes and throw events and bring people together. I’m good at marketing. I can help save the world in the ways that I know how. Everyone can do a little. Like recycle or donate your clothes instead of throwing them away.
You’ve said before that you’re disillusioned with streetwear currently.
Yeah, just vacant messaging, no depth and I was kind of bored. I want to work with those who inspire me and make it real. This collab is as real as you can get and it’s not just a one-time thing. We both want it to be a longterm relationship.
Credits
Text Paige Silveria
Images courtesy Heron Preston