Of all fashion’s pit-stops, Paris is the starriest affair. Four times a year, musicians, models and K-rap queens descend upon the City of Light for a schedule rammed with shows and parties, which only seem to get bigger each season — often with screaming crowds to match. Whatever you call it – the TikTokification of fashion, fash-tainment or a gross indictment of late (late) capitalism – the fandom and glamour that has subsumed Planet Mode this side of the century is going nowhere. Didn’t make the guestlist? Don’t worry. Take a leaf out of photographer Francesc Planes’ book, and you can get into anything.
“I just try to keep moving all the time,” says Francesc, who captures the comings-and-goings of Paris Fashion Week for i-D. Getting up close and personal, he points and shoots on instinct, and yet, somehow, never misses. Whether it’s rapper Quavo, dripped out in white gold cuban links and a diamond-encrusted suit, or Kris Jenner, looking flawless despite a back-to-back schedule of shows, Francesc’s photos bring a candid but high-gloss allure to Parigi, splicing and pairing backstage moments with close-ups of dad-jeaned paparazzis and screaming prepubescents.
To capture the magic requires serious hustle. Only this lensman could end up in a room with just Pharrell, Mos Def and Erykah Badu, fresh from the Comme Des Garçons show. “It was cool. No one was there, no photographers. Mos Def was playing music for Pharrell,” he says nonchalantly. Despite his easy-going character, he’s speedy when he needs to be. Indeed, it’s that quickfire, thinking on your feet, that shows in the work. Unable to secure a ticket for Balenciaga, he stuck around backstage, catching a late Naomi Campbell (quelle surprise!).
While there’s an urgency when the moment comes, there’s also the downtime waiting to pounce. Having been tipped off by a Rick Owens insider that the man himself would be popping by the in-store afterparty, Francesc bided his time by a white wall, ready for action. In the five minutes Rick was there, Francesc got what he needed. “He’s very shy and introverted, so I just took two photos,” says Francesc. The same approach followed for Pamela Anderson. After a colleague spotted her at the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show – despite the dark lighting at the show – Francesc slapped the flash on, and the result speaks for itself. Pam stands resplendent with fresh pearly whites, radiant skin and an iconic tweed ensemble for the late Viv.
And no, Francesc doesn’t get starstruck. He leaves that to us and you. As such, even in the sheen of fashion week, he finds space for humour. Zoning in on the dewy faces, high-octane posing, reporter cameras and even the questionable manicures, his is a world where being too much, caking it on and strapping yourself into a set of fuck-off Coperni heels is everything. Botox and big shades, this way…
Credits
Photography Francesc Planes