New York
Rodarte and Proenza Schouler
New York needs some love right now. With many of the biggest American designers choosing to show in Paris — Rick Owens, Virgil Abloh, Humberto and Carol Lim — and others going off-schedule, the line-up can often feel a little lacklustre. But this season two of its most popular homegrown talents are returning. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler have spent the past two seasons showing during haute couture week, but taking to Instagram to reveal the news, the pair expressed their appreciation for New York’s growing movement towards unisex collections, writing “In today’s world, when, where and how one shows can be looser and more fluid than ever and so for now, NY is our home once again.” New York’s other design-duo expats Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte are also returning to the NYFW after three seasons in Paris.
Special mention: Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty show
Previously showing her Puma collaboration at NYFW, this season Rihanna will present Savage x Fenty underwear as an “immersive experience” somewhere in Brooklyn on the last day of shows, with the collection available to buy immediately after the show.
London
Riccardo Tisci debuts his first collection for Burberry
It’s been nine months since Riccardo Tisci, formerly the creative director of Givenchy, was revealed as the new chief creative officer of Burberry. Replacing Christopher Bailey, who spent 17 years at the iconic British brand, little has been revealed about what Riccardo’s vision will look like. What we do know is that renowned British graphic designer Peter Saville designed the new logo and monogram and there’ll be a collaboration with Vivienne Westwood dropping in December. Given the number of archive logos and general ephemera Riccardo has been posting on his personal Instagram, it seems likely he’s been digging the brand’s past when conceiving of its future.
Special mention: Victoria Beckham’s London debut
Despite 10 years in the business, Victoria Beckham has never shown a collection at London Fashion Week, instead choosing New York for her chic, understated wears. But this season, to celebrate a decade of her brand, VB is presenting spring/summer 19 line on home turf. Given that husband David is now the British Fashion Council’s Ambassadorial President, a new role that’s tasked with elevating London’s designers on a global level, perhaps she wanted to lend her support by way of her eponymous brand. Now that Phoebe Philo’s gone off the grid, maybe VB’s seen her chance to claim the chic-understated-wearable-womenswear throne?
Milan
Versace just… because
There isn’t much movement at Milan’s biggest houses right now, the likes of Prada, Fendi and Moschino enjoying a much more “strong and stable” period in comparison to their international contemporaries. Though equally helmed by a longstanding creative director, the venerable Donatella, in recent seasons Versace has provided some of the best, over the top, louche, sexy fashion drama where other designers have become focused on appealing to the streetwear market. For spring/summer 18 Donatella assembled five of the most iconic 90s supermodels and sent them down the runway in sheer gold dresses in homage to the late, great Gianni. We’re hoping for something similarly outrageous.
Special mention: Moncler Genius 2.0
Last Milan Fashion Week, Moncler announced their Moncler Genius project, with eight designers — including Craig Green, Simone Rocha and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli — tasked with reinterpreting their famous down jacket with their own unique touch. Given its success, there’s rumours that it’ll return for spring/summer 19.
Paris
A new era for Celine
Hedi Slimane’s show for his first Céline collection will take place on the 21st of September. Having teased out a subtle redesign of the logo, sans accent, as well as offering a glimpse at the first handbag on Lady Gaga out and about in Paris, there’s little more known about what the collection will look like. Speaking to Vogue last month, Hedi discussed his changing relationship with the city of Los Angeles, once his main inspiration. “I’m always attached to the idea of California, but recently less so to the city of Los Angeles. I don’t feel comfortable with the evolution over the last few years — too many people have moved in.” Instead, he’s now looking to the French capital. “Clearly, the political shift has changed the dynamics of the city and the country in general,” he further explained to Vogue. “It has definitely moved my focus toward Paris.”
Special mention: Gucci in Paris
For one season only, Alessandro Michele is showing Gucci in Paris rather than in Milan. Speaking to WWD, Marco Bizzarri, president and chief executive officer of Gucci, discussed the show as a creative homage to France. “Gucci is a global brand with deep and vibrant Italian roots and a visionary French shareholder, Kering. When Alessandro told me of his desire to present the new collection in Paris — continuing the French-inspired narrative — I thought it was a perfect way to continue the creative homage to France.”
