Another week gone means there’s another week of must-see campaigns, must-cop drops, must-have collabs and must-go events we need to catch up on. And this week is rather jewellery-pilled – not that you need an excuse to get some chic new bling. Whether you’re looking for opulence with O Thongthai’s drop of accessories adorned with resplendent Thai stones, or something only slightly more understated with Toteme’s discreetly lavish pieces, we’ve got you covered. But what about the rest of your going-out outfits this weekend? For them you have Conner Ives new depop drop, Dior’s big ol’ boots or Berghaus brit-gorp to thank. Finally, your hungover Sunday can be spent leafing through Givenchy’s new photobook, staring longingly at the poolside pics of the new Amiri campaign and planning your trip to Copenhagen in January to see the newly-announced crop of new talents from the Nordic scene. Your weekend is sorted! Here’s what’s in fashion.
Babe, wake up… New Conner Ives just dropped on Depop
Hot on the heels of his SS24 collection, the US king of noughties camp teams up with the online selling platform par excellence, Depop, to share a hot-topic pick of goodies from the Johnny Dufort-shot offering (and then some). Forefronted with the doodle t-shirt-skirt combo – reminiscent of the summer camp t-shirt signings that define Stateside summers – the drop also features a seriously new-age medley of coloured jewel necklaces and bracelets, harking back to everyone’s mystical, flower-power stage. Don’t pretend you didn’t have one! So, crystal girlies keen to realign their chakras, jump to it. Unlike the shopping mall fare you grew up on, this alt joaillerie promises quality – namechecking Swarovski crystals, fine imitation-leather pendant threads and blown-glass amulets in tribal or starfish shapes. No doubt, you caught wind of the wider penchant for bohemian delights back in Milan Fashion Week, but Conner’s collection, drip-fed here and first aired by trans icon and i-D cover star Alex Consani, is the sassiest yet, taking cues from turn-of-the-century PG Disney costumes and high-school americana. Selling like hotcakes already, the select pieces available are over on Conner’s Depop. It goes without saying that raucous haggling, ‘gifted’ payments and ‘trades’ are not encouraged, unless you’re keen to destroy your star rating and end up on DM Drama. Yes, it’s a cost of living crisis, but Conner won’t be dropping his prices anytime soon, no matter how desperately you ‘#WTB’. JB
Toteme drops a discreetly chic jewellery line
As the old saying goes, all that glitters isn’t gold… well, unless – as in this case – it damn well is! Yes, this week sees the arrival of yet another fashion big-hitter into the jewellery space, with Toteme following in the footsteps of the likes of Prada and Saint Laurent to put out its own line of trés recherché bijoux. Granted, as you’d naturally expect of the Swedish purveyor of svelte minimalism – Stockholm’s answer to The Row, in many ways – the collection they’ve put out is less bust down bling, more understated statement pieces. Think: snap-fastened, subtly curvilinear bangles in enamelled brass and recycled 18k gold; directional interpretations of classic chain-link necklaces; cigar and signet rings studded with single diamonds. Indeed, it should go without saying that the 13-piece collection is chic, discreet and easy to style, but if you’re still wondering how you could pull it, look no further than the brand’s oh-so-elegant campaign starring Vivienne Rohner – and shot by none other than the Steven Meisel! A Toteme-ic moment for the brand and the world of jewellery at large! MS
Dior does big-boot energy for Cruise
Boots the house down, Dior! Any of the girlies catching flights (not feelings) this winter better be wearing these – and only these – botas mexicanas as they step off the jet for sunnier settings. Indeed, any globe-trotting fashionista worth their salt will have clocked the footwear in question way back in May, when Maria Grazia Chiuri aired them as part of her heartfelt ode to the Resort show’s location, Mexico City. Why there? Why not? Aside from fashion’s infamous love for jet-setting here, there and everywhere, not to mention Mexico’s status as the new It-spot for hot-shot creatives to cluster, the country has long been a hotbed of craft and artistry, spanning everyone from Frida Kahlo to Bárbara Sánchez-Kane. As such, these boots are giving artisanal in buckets, replete with embossed mariposas and panelled with a rich, cherry-brown patina and exquisite detailing on the toe-caps. So, whether you’re girlbossing in the office, repping for Meh-hee-ko or just finding your feet on an art foundation, these are the rodeo-realness solutions to your sartorial soul-searching. Yes, it’s time to ditch the vintage numbers you thrifted in Notting Hill. Plus, when the rest of the collection launches, you can team yours with the cow-print cardi and knife-pleated prairie dress for ranch refinement. JB
The new names to know in Nordic fashion
As you damn well know, if there’s one thing we’re big fans of here at i-D, it’s up-and-coming fashion talent. As such, the sense of kinship we feel with Copenhagen Fashion Week – arguably one of the most happening crucibles of boundary-pushing independent fashion design right now – is implicit, particularly given their commitment to creating a space to nurture the next great Nordic designers by way of a specifically developed scheme: NEWTALENT. First launched back in SS23, the programme affords 3-to-4 designers a spot on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule for three seasons, as well as a robust mentoring programme and a spot in a prestigious Paris showroom. Indeed, the support they offer can catalyse a designer’s career, as proven by the ever-growing international acclaim of emerging Scandinavian brands – and NEWTALENT alumni – like A. Roege Hove and P.L.N. This week, the latest recipients of the Copenhagen Fashion Week NEWTALENT scheme were announced. Returning to the line-up are Nicklas Skovgaard, who dazzled audiences with a performance – and mannequin – oriented presentation at the last edition of CPHFW – and Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth, with Danish brands Stamm Exchange and Alectra Rotschild / Masculina making their on-schedule runway debuts towards the end of January. All the more reason to look forward to 2024, then! MS
Amiri’s pre-spring 2024 campaign is seriously LA
In his latest campaign, Mike Amiri takes a group of party-ready models to the kind of house the realtors of Selling Sunset would be itching to make a commission off. The stunning and dreamy Stahl House overlooking Sunset Boulevard has been the backdrop to cult classic Hollywood releases, pop star music videos and now, the Amiri pre-spring 2024 collection. Adorned in era-spanning garments that echo the 70s jazz scene in their brown and burnt orange knits and faux fur overcoats, Y2K double denim bandana prints, mid-century smart tailoring and the streetwear styles of LA today, models traipse around infinity pools, sun loungers, balconies and recording studios, ready to pick up some of the creativity fluttering in the Hollywood air. Classic, vintage tailoring is deconstructed with zipped flairs and asymmetrical buttoning across blazers, and leather jumpsuits and dresses are structured sleekly across the bodice as these seemingly workwear pieces are pared back for the everyday, and worn alongside the MA runner, a new oversized, 90s-style running shoe. Indeed, these are the perfect nonchalant looks for either strolling into the office late with an iced latte or turning up to Tinseltown’s most exclusive shindigs. No one knows which one you’re doing because, well, it’s LA. TG
Givenchy release their first ever print monograph spanning eight decades
What’s your favourite Givenchy era? Those early Hubert de Givenchy years when Audrey Hepburn served as muse? The short-lived John Galliano era filled with lingerie and aristocratic signatures? The dark, shocking and controversial overtones of Alexander McQueen’s tenure? Julien MacDonald’s 00s sparkling glamour? The twelve years when Riccardo Tisci reimagined the house’s codes with a romantic gothicism? The elegance of Clare Waight Keller’s time, that saw her design Megan Markle’s bridal gown? Or the current era, that sees Mathew Williams bring streetwear styles and the codes of hip hop to one of Paris’ most tradition-steeped houses? Well, you can find it all in a new book entitled Givenchy Catwalk: The Complete Collections; a mammoth retrospective that collates 1200 original runway photographs spanning from the first collections in the early 50s (many of which otherwise have never been published) to now. Truly the ultimate print monograph to the house’s storied past – and the only one at that! – each new creative director of Givenchy is signposted with a biography of the designer, while notes alongside each of their collections explain their inspirations and highlights. The perfect Christmas gift for any fashion fiends amongst your loved ones, get your copy here! TG
Berghaus brings back the original Brit-gorp jacket
It’s hard to believe now, but outerwear used to be the sole reserve of hardened climbers, hikers and a select pick of subcultures. For Berghaus, the Geordie-born brand now unanimously rocked by everyone from your substitute geography teacher to Gore-Tex-encased scousers at Glastonbury, this once niche audience included ravers, second-wave football casuals and, back in London, graffiti writers, keen to keep warm while out and about on their antics. But, with time, the following grew, spawning new pockets. Savvy to this fresh generation of vintage archivists reviving the label’s cult items – particularly the Mera Peak jacket, subject to its own internet in-jokes – the Berghaus team has finally given the kids what they want, reissuing legendary designs for anyone wanting their very own shiny (well, matte) new one. Arriving in both a boyish royal blue and black, as well as an a 90s textbook colourway of aqua green, purple and pink, the Mera Peak joins a wardrobe of techier, tape-seamed tonal pieces, zip-through windbreakers and expeditionist backpacks, perfect for pulling a look at the next squat party or wholesome getaway with the in-laws. Thought techwear was just an excuse to make lockdown fashionable? Think again. Fashion, for all its love of newness, is a creature of habit. As sure as spring follows winter, coats and storm-proof layers remain essential, no matter how wild global warming or the cozzie livs gets. Blokes and blokettes channelling late-90s Cool Britannia or early-00s laddiness, Berghaus is back. JB
Jewellery maven O Thongthai pays homage to the real Thailand
For the past decade, Bangkok-born Chanyaporn ‘O’ Thongthai has been running one of London’s finest leftfield jewellers in the game, serving up dainty and divine treats since graduating her alma mater, Central Saint Martins. Soon finding fans in the likes of A$AP Rocky, she remains a trusty fixture for custom designs and those bedazzled and bejewelled signet rings anyone looking to flex a little ice without coming off basic needs in their bling-drobe. Forget those questionable bracelets and rose-gold eternity rings your provincial boyfriend gifted you a day too late. O Thongthai serves a little edge, perfect for anyone embracing their inner faerie girl or shirking their otherwise beige life story for something a little more fantastic, all while channelling soft and cutesy. And yes, this new collection – with 100 percent of profits supporting the Gaza Crisis – is the real deal, ditching half-hearted faux-hemianism for authentic Thai stones and materials . Pearls, shells, agate and obsidians are just some of the finery you can reel off when your suburban auntie asks what you’re wearing around your neck and wrist at Sunday lunch. Before you cop the drop, though, make sure you watch the accompanying film directed by longstanding collaborator and Skepta fav, Ciesay, which homes in a metal-working village in rural Thailand, highlighting the mysticism and traditions that inspires O Thongthai, while also putting paid to your otherwise embarrassing misconceptions around Thailand. Yes, Becky, it’s more than just sex tourism and an excuse to take your sabbatical early. Now, chop chop on over to O Thongthai. JB