The sartorial world never stops spinning and 12 days into 2024 and our inbox has become jam packed with new chic collections, campaigns, capsules, collabs and culture from the fashion sphere. Of course, there’s the much-anticipated first campaign from Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, made with i-D’s editor in chief no less. Along with it they also drop a new anthem for the sad girls, gays and theys. Speaking of music, Nicolas brings his lifetime of raving to a curation at a Parisian record store, while motown and disco diva Diana Ross graces the latest Saint Laurent campaign with her elegance. There’s also Chanel in Marseille, Dior in New York and Balenciaga on the soccer pitch, along with exciting announcements from many of our other faves. Here’s what’s in fashion.
Sabato De Sarno drops his very first campaign
New year, new faces! Well, according to Gucci, that is. While all eyes today may have been on the Italian house’s menswear show in Milan, where Sabato De Sarno debuted his refined sartorial vision for the sterner sex, the start of the week saw the arrival of his very first campaign. Shot by David Sims and styled by our very own Alastair McKimm, the fresh image series stars five new faces who walked the show – Ana, Fadia, Jiahui, Violet and recent i-D cover star Nyajuok! More than just for the fact that this is Sabato’s first campaign for the house, it’s an especially poignant one given that David was the first photographer he worked with during the period he first fell in love with fashion. Fittingly, the stripped-back images they’ve created amount to an ode to fashion imagery, oozing the effortless sensuality that David’s built a name for over decades spent at the top of the industry. The campaign bar’s been set high this year, girlies! MS
Gucci’s new bop is a queer and tender antidote to machismo
It’s been nigh on a year since Sabato De Sarno took the helm at Casa Gucci, but now, after much anticipation, we’re finally getting a taste (and sound) of his menswear. After airing his women’s vision in summer with that irresistably romantic ‘Gucci Ancora’ soundtrack produced by Mark Ronson, Sabato drops the number once more for good measure while adding another element to the mix. Enter: queer French artist Lucky Love, the queen behind “Masculinity”, a brooding track released in 2022, detailing his prickly experiences with manhood. The singer, who cut his teeth in the Parisian drag scene, stands as an icon for young people navigating their place in the hetero-patriarchal superstructure that is Planet Earth. “Do I walk like a boy? // Do I speak like a boy? Do I stand like a boy?” the singer ponders with electrifying vocals. It’s a fitting creative decision on Sabato’s part, chiming neatly with both his ambassador choices so far – soft boy par excellence, Paul Mescal, being a case in point – and the overtly homosexual campaigns used across socials. Despite fashion being arguably the most au fait industry when it comes to queerness, Sabato’s overt, outward-facing embrace of softness, fragility and gay sexuality among guys feels like a bold move and has sometimes proven enough to rankle against a small sect of consumers. Good riddance, we say. Teamed with his pared-back aesthetic, such moves make for a moving, sanguine moment, just as hot as Tom Ford’s era, but far more vulnerable. Bbygrl boys, unite. JB
Diana Ross is the new face of Saint Laurent
Just when you thought David Sims had already smashed the seasonal campaign competition out of the water, he does it again. Working with yet another brand under the Kering conglomerate, the legendary lensman applies his cool gaze to Motown’s favourite diva, Miss Diana Ross. Regal in a black, halterneck gown and fur coat, the lady behind ballad aplenty channels the stylistic restraint Saint Laurent’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, has made his name on. It’s wise picks all-round, in fact. Not only is David Sims a byword for classic, but he’s also a trusted authority in framing women as their most powerful selves, often shooting them in black and white to enhance the mood of old-World glamour. Diana, also, fits the bill, having long displayed a love for showstopper gowns that rely less on Met Gala gimmicks and more on refined, curve-caressing cuts. Indeed, your parents will remember her donning numbers of this ilk alongside the Supremes, as well as the increasingly honed and singular look she crafted from thereon. Even now, her showbizzy diva-ship remains intact, making her the dream clothes-horse for designers like Anthony who believe in 70s and 80s American style as much as contemporary fashion strains. JB
The sonic world of Courrèges takes over record store Dizonord
Whether it’s the blaring techno music at his runway shows, the way his gateway into fashion was 90s MTV music videos, or the fact that Courrèges under his leadership has become the unofficial uniform of the Paris club scene; music, partying and dancing play an integral role in Nicolas Di Felice’s craft. Extending that legacy, the Parisian house has partnered with Dizonord, the record store in northern Paris that has become famed for its stock of vintage books, records and rare treasures from the underground music scenes in the 90s and 00s that the city’s kids are desperate to snap up. Alongside shop founders Vincent Privat and Xavier Ehretsmann, Nicolas has curated a collection running at the store until 25 February that not only celebrates the music of his homeland of Belgium and its famed rave scenes that inspired him, but also speaks to the DNA of his Courrèges: alt-fashion mags from the past, queer artefacts, vintage party fliers, counterculture documents, and impossible-to-find books. Alongside that is a curation of original photography including the raw and intimate portraits of queer nightlife from Spyros Rennt and Cha Gonzalez. The former will be at the store on 18 January to sign his book Corporeal for fans too. What’s more, the collaboration will see a limited edition reissue of Julia von Dorpp’s Ex-Tracts, a book filled with iconic fliers and posters from the British rave scene, as well as a super exclusive re-edition of the kinky fashion mag Bad Boy Zine. Might we see the experimental music of 12-year-old Nicolas or the new tracks he recently told us he has brewing inside of him? Only one way to find out – head to 119 Rue Vieille du Temple. TG
Louis Vuitton revives its noughties classics
Thought that Y2K and silly-small shoulder accessories had reached their natural conclusion? Think again. With both a rise in Google searches for all things noughties and the LV malletier’s endless inventory of killer moments to reissue, the It-bags of early millennium are going nowhere. Plus, it’s still ripe terrain for the LV maison. Of all the household labels to lean into their not-so-distant past, Louis V has been most cautious. While Balenciaga doubled down on City bags and Fendi haemorrhaged runways with Tiffany egg-cup blue Baguettes, the early tweenies have otherwise been quiet with LV throwbacks, despite its goldmine. Now, finally, Depop girlies can rejoice as micro favourites including the kitschy-clutchy Vernis and Croissant are rendered here in pink and pastel hues, not to mention the so-trashy-it’s-good denim designs we’ve long pined for. Sure, we’re always here for Nicolas Ghesquière’s slightly eighties, futuristic skew, but we can’t pretend Marc Jacobs’ reign doesn’t live rent-free in our heads as we trawl through Sex and the City re-runs. Sometimes, you just have to give the girls what they want. Plus, this new Remix collection is the perfect balm for our shoddy weather. Indeed, those monogram denim espadrilles and raffia platforms should tide us over till April, while the Coachella-apt bucket hat and purse combos – very 90s Lil Kim – are already forming the basis of our summer outfit plans. Shop the goods on Louis Vuitton now. JB
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior is taking New York for AW24
With Pitti Uomo coming to an end and the fash pack racing over to Milan for the city’s menswear shows, fashion month AW24 is in full swing and we’ve picked up all the melatonin and energy drinks our holdalls can carry. But if you’ve had a scan of the upcoming slate of fashion weeks you may have noticed a major player on the Parisian schedule seemingly MIA. Where is Dior? Is Maria Grazia Chiuri taking a well-earned sabbatical? No, rather than showcasing on the normal schedule, this season Dior AW24 will take place on 15 April and is swapping out the streets of the city of love for the streets of the city that never sleeps. Doing a reverse Emily in Paris, Maria Grazia’s collection will be unveiled this season at the Brooklyn Museum in New York “as a tribute to the unwavering ties forged between Dior and the United States from the very beginning of the House,” reads a statement, stating it will also celebrate “the founding-couturier’s passion for the fascinating American metropolis.” What does Dior in NYC look like? Keep your eyes peeled on our socials this season to find out. TG
Chanel cruises to Marseille
Today, we learned the news that Chanel has made like most of East London and booked itself a springtime jaunt to the sunny southern French city of Marseille! Yes, on 2 May, the titanic maison will be docking at the Mediterranean port city to present its Cruise 2025 collection, following on from last year’s all-out celebration of all the chintzy archetypes that Hollywood calls home, and their December takeover of Manchester for the most recent Metiers d’Art show. “Chanel is delighted to be making a stopover in such a culturally open-minded city,” the house shared with WWD, noting “the energy and cultural vitality that make it one of the most effervescent places on the Mediterranean coast.” Well, all the more reasons to follow the crowds and make for Marseille (Mar-slay??), we guess! MS
A sassy book in defence of affordable fashion
Seasoned writer, critic and all-round fash-ademic, Dal Chodha, has penned his very own billet-doux to Cheap Chic (1975), the seminal how-to guide written for young, cash-strapped sartorialists. Entitled, You gotta keep your head straight about clothes, Dal’s new publication, published with Tenderbooks, harks back to his own student days at Central Saint Martins. Then, learning about the lofty designs of high fashion, he felt a dissonance between the lessons’ content and what he could actually buy. Even the books dedicated to fashion felt financially irrelevant to him. That is until, one day, on a whim, he sourced a copy of Cheap Chic, soon enamouring himself with its DIY approach to pulling high-calibre looks on a low income. Whether it was tips for nailing an Ivy League ensemble on a community college wage, or simply an insight into thrifting – long before the dawn of second-hand platforms – the book inspired Dal’s thinking forever. And so, here, in a Beat-esqe blend of collage, journalism and memoir, he presents a stream of consciousness, both lucid but playfully meandering, that unravels the decision-making and poetics that comes when shopping skint. It’s camp and acerbic, spotting the bastardisation of Cheap Chic’s MO in populist, noughties TV that would instruct working-class women on “how to look good naked” and “what not to wear”, among other questionable advice. You know: the trashy gold every young queer obsessed over. Together, Dal addresses a niche but ever-relatable experience that will no doubt ring true with today’s young fashionistas tackling the highs and lows of art school. Grab your copy now. JB
Balenciaga balenciaga-fies the soccer kit
Over the last few years, footballers have increasingly become fashion icons once more. But more recently, it seems designers have themselves become footy fanatics, from the soccer boot inspired Wales Bonner x Adidas Sambas and Martine Rose x Nike Shox, to Ahluwalia and Stella McCartney’s soccer tees. The latest to become football pilled is Balenciaga, who have dropped a limited capsule of soccer tees, shorts, brimmed caps, scarves, trackies and other of the sports paraphernalia in hues of vibrant red, neon green and sleek black. With the house’s signature slouchy, droopy fits, the pieces feature logos and city names corresponding to the stores in which they can be bought, as well as the number 10 (a reference to the Balenciaga home grounds at 10 Avenue George V, of course). To be the chicest player on the pitch, head to select Balenciaga stores in Aoyama, Barcelona, Beverly Hills, Dubai, Ipanema, Mayfair, Miami, Milan, Paris, Seoul, Shanghai, Soho, and Tokyo, or go to Balenciaga.com. TG
Stone Island leans into cult British icons
For many, Stone Island is both a label and a way of life. Mention it to any bloke in your local, and they’ll chew your ear off, proclaiming its subcultural significance, both among football fans, the Milanese paninari and contemporary grime musicians. In short, it’s something of a watchword for good taste among men, acting as a workaround for the wear-and-tear of daily life and as a sign that you’re in the know or au fait with ingenious fabric treatments. There are also the zhooshy features the label prides itself on, whether that’s a woven steel construction or a colour-changing thermosensitivity. Now, with its very own fashion week showcase and a David Sims campaign – last one, we promise – to boot, the label has gone full circle. Where it once attracted subcultures without explicitly acknowledging them, this time, Stone Island leans directly into its legacy, calling on everyone from trip-hop pioneer Tricky, eternal hardman Jason Statham and former i-D cover star Dave.
“Good quality, forward-thinking fabrics and technical innovation inspired by functional or military design. This is why it gets appropriated by and into subculture,” says film director and Stoney superfan, Glenn Kitson. And so, how the AW24 showcase today taps into that technical innovation and history matters. “It makes you feel like you’re a part of something,” says Wavey Garms founder and collector, Andrés Branco. Having undergone several creative eras, headed up first by the late founder Massimo Osti, then by CSM alum Paul Harvey, and now finally, a broad design team, it’s a brand with lots at stake for different consumers. “Some people will be attracted to the styles of certain designers. You see people going back to Osti or Paul Harvey’s work to focus on that retrospectively,” says Ollie Evans, a revered Stone Island archivist that runs Too Hot Limited. “But like the subcultures themselves, Stone Island has evolved whilst staying true to its founding principles, which is why the vintage pieces are just as relevant today and can happily sit alongside the new designs in the same person’s wardrobe.” Fingers crossed those regenerated eco and metallic nylons pictured here are still the real deal. JB
Coachtopia’s new doc takes us behind-the-scenes of circular fashion
Just under a year ago Coach launched Coachtopia, their gen-z focused sub-brand that uses leftover materials and upcrafted deadstock, treated with the 80-year leatherwork expertise of the house, to create exciting new garms that bring Coach into a more circular and sustainable fashion model. Now, a new docuseries from the New York brand explains their journey over the past year. Entitled The Road to Circularity, the first episode of the series, itself called Making with Waste, follows sustainability advocate and friend of the brand Aditi Mayer, as she heads to KH Exports, a family-run leather manufacturer in Chennai, India and follows the process of leather waste being sorted, prototyped, designed into something completely new and then produced. What’s more, the doc looks to change our mindset on the way we see garments, consumption and waste. “Because of our cultural mindset around perfection, the natural grain of leather can be seen as a defect, leading to more waste,” says Aditi at one point during the first episode. “It makes me realize that circularity is not just about changing the way we make, but changing the way we think.” Watch the first episode on Youtube. TG