This story originally appeared in i-D’s The Timeless Issue, no. 371, Spring 2023. Order your copy here.
At the heart of Awake NY is New York City, The City of Dreams, a city built on the backs of generation after generation of hard working immigrants. For many of these immigrants Carhartt was, and is, the literal uniform for the day-to-day hustle. As so often happens, the streets co-opted it and fashion followed close behind, solidifying Carhartt WIP’s status as a timeless staple for both work or play. Sharing brand values that encompass quality, utilitarian design and traditions old and new, Awake founder Angelo Baque skillfully puts his twist on a classic, saying “I always envision the kid from the street, from the outer boroughs, what does he wanna wear? But at the same time, with a brand like Carhartt WIP, you don’t wanna draw a moustache on the Mona Lisa, you know what I mean? The silhouette’s already timeless.”
Staying true to his roots has always been Angelo’s M.O., and Carhartt WIP’s influence on him is undeniable. “Carhartt was part of the uniform. With my generation, if you wanted to be pretty and slick, you put on some Polo or Hilfiger, but Carhartt was almost like battle armour, something to wear when it was time to go out bombing. When you put that Carhartt on it’s a whole attitude change. Whether it’s a chore coat or a beanie, it was just like you were in a different time the minute you put that on, it still transcends to this day,” he says.
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To commemorate this collection, Angelo brought the past and future together too, calling on the brand’s crew of friends and supporters, La Comunidad, as well as The God MC himself, Rakim, another hugely profound influence on him. “Rakim was probably the first rapper as a kid who I saw on TV that stylistically I was like, ‘I want to be him’. You know? It was just like, whatever he got… unfortunately there was no way I could grow a flat top fade like Rakim but man, I wanted everything he had. He just oozes cool. And that’s something you can never quantify” he says.
It’s impossible to overstate the significance of the notion of ‘giving back’ that has been at the foundation of everything Angelo touches, whether it’s his past work with Supreme or his community program Social Studies. Awake is just another platform to support this mission. With this campaign he is both honouring a hip-hop legend, giving him his flowers while he still can, and championing the future of New York City’s POC creative community.
“I’m always thinking about the kid from the street, from the outer boroughs, what does he wanna wear?” Angelo Baque
“La Comunidad is the reason why I’m here. La Comunidad is basically this photo shoot. A proper representation of the landscape of New York City, right? ‘Community’ has become such a hot word over the last three to four years, but it’s always been about that for us and about the tribes and community and friends and how that kind of shapes and moulds you”, he says.
In true NY fashion – jaded, nostalgic, but proud – he says, “the New York that I love obviously doesn’t exist anymore, but I don’t let that ruin my spirit, my attitude about New York because the real New York exists within me now. And for me, it’s an everlasting resource”.
Ray Morales
Who are you and what do you do?
My Name is Ray Morales, I’m the founder of Learn and Destroy; a movement, a brand, and a community of self-taught individuals.
Tell me a bit about your upbringing and where you’re from?
I’m from New York City and grew up in an immigrant working class family. I realised at a young age the passion, ingenuity, hard work and sacrifice that the immigrant spirit holds, and this has inspired me ever since.
Do you have any early memories of wearing Carhartt WIP?
I always had an appreciation for workwear, seeing family wear it was really the only style I thought was cool. So as soon as someone in my family didn’t want a worn down pair or ripped pair of Carhartt WIP trousers, they were mine.
How would you describe your style?
Rugged and tough. I like to wear outfits like uniforms and wear them as long as possible; it saves me some time. Also, I appreciate the ageing in garments that make them unique to your lifestyle and who you are.
What is the significance of La Comunidad to you?
Unity, and what we all contribute as a whole and what message we are pushing to the younger generation. “¡El pueblo unido jamás será vencido!”
Jon Gray
Who are you and what do you do?
I’m Jon Gray and I’m here to kick in the door, wave the .44, cause a ruckus and change the game. Brick by brick.
Tell me a bit about your upbringing and where you’re from?
I was born and raised in the Bronx by a tribe of dynamic intelligent Black women.
As NY-born brands, what fundamental values does your own brand share with Awake?
Our brands distil the essence of True Yorkers, those who have been underestimated historically yet survive and thrive even with the odds stacked against us. Get down or lay down and respect the fly shit!
Do you have any early memories of wearing Carhartt WIP?
My pops was a carpenter so he rocked Carhartt jackets. My older brothers played the block rocking Carhartt jumpers with the 40 belows. Moving bricks and laying lumber runs in the fam.
Can you speak to the importance and influence of Carhartt and workwear in general to hip-hop style and streetwear culture as a whole?
When you’re outside putting in work, protective gear is necessary. Hope you overstand that.
What is the significance of La Comunidad to you?
Community builds immunity.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?
The best advice I ever received was to take less advice.
What inspires you?
I’m inspired by travelling to foreign lands, tasting new things, visual arts and architecture.
Rakim
Please introduce yourself…
My name is Rakim Allah. Some people call me The God MC.
Tell me about your upbringing and where you’re from…
I’m the fifth and final child of a Long Island family. We grew up in a house surrounded by music; whether it was my aunt, R&B legend Ruth Brown, getting ready for the Apollo; my eldest brother touring with Kurtis Blow; my mom singing jazz in Brooklyn; or me and my siblings listening to my father’s huge record collection.
How has being from New York shaped your outlook on fashion, style and what you wear?
New York has always set trends. Whether it was down in the Delancy shops, over in Albee or uptown with Dapper Dan, urban fashion originated in and emanated from this city.
What does Awake as a brand represent to you?
Awake is rooted in NYC. They know street cats in New York are gonna need a reference point but also want to keep moving. Like with these Carhartt WIP pieces. They take a classic structure, something we all never stop rocking, but bring it forward with a different cut and a whole lot of street sense.
What music did you grow up listening to and how did that influence your own sound?
My house was filled with every genre from Marley to Mozart, but it was the combination of 60s and 70s soul and R&B, and Coltrane and Gillespie, that really laid the foundation.
What excites you about the future of hip-hop music in New York city?
I’m excited for the future of all hip-hop, everywhere. People keep pushing boundaries, staying true to their purpose and their art form and that elevates us all.
What are your hopes for future generations?
I hope they stay conscious in their lyricism, positive in their lifestyle, and always true to themselves.
Who or what inspires you the most?
Humanity. I stare out a window onto the streets of New York and know that behind every window there’s a story.
Outside of your music, what do you want to be remembered for?
A builder of monuments… physical, mental and spiritual.
Victor Vegas
Who are you and what do you do?
My name is Victor Vegas. I’m the founder of Primer Rebelde De America.
Tell me a bit about your upbringing and where you’re from?
I was born in Queens and raised in Ridgewood. I grew up wanting to act and trained for six years, but at the age of eighteen, I began a process of reconnection that led me down a path of taking back my indigenous identity. That experience changed my life forever and was the main catalyst for creating my brand.
Tell me about your own brand Primer Rebelde De America and how it came to be…
I founded the brand in 2019. It came to be after I began my journey of discovering who I really was and who my ancestors were. It was born out of necessity, it’s not just cool T-shirts but about helping the next generation of children who were lost like me to find their truth easier than I did. It’s unapologetic American storytelling, from Alaska to Patagonia.
How has being from New York shaped your outlook on fashion, style, and what you wear?
It helped me open up to all the different kinds of possibilities that existed in how clothing is used. It showed me that fashion was an art that could be taken very seriously, and it also showed me that it was something that could be taken light-heartedly. Either way, it inspired me to experiment and play with everything in order to find my truth in it all.
What’s your favourite and least favourite thing about NYC?
My favourite thing about NYC is the tight-knit communities that have been here for decades and helped build neighbourhoods like Ridgewood. My least favourite thing is seeing those same communities being displaced and uprooted.
What’s one thing you can’t live without?
Love.
Annette Cruz
Who are you and what do you do?
My name is Annette Cruz and I’m an event coordinator but also a multifaceted creative and socialite.
Tell me a bit about your upbringing and where you’re from?
I’m Dominican, raised in Yonkers, NY and I’m the youngest of three. I will say that being confident and comfortable in who I am has definitely led me to some great opportunities and experiences.
What’s your personal theme song?
“Sky’s The Limit” by Notorious B.I.G.
What does Awake represent to you?
Culture and community. Two things that I take pride in and love very much.
How has New York shaped your outlook on fashion and what you wear?
Since a very young age, my inspiration has come from walking down the street and seeing what people are wearing.
What is the significance of La Comunidad to you?
When I hear La Comunidad I automatically think of the fire hydrants open on a hot summer day. Coming together, celebrating culture, and exchanging similar interests and ideas to help lift each other.
Raul Lopez
Who are you and what do you do?
Who I am is a great question. To many, I’m granny. To myself, I’m just basic Raul. I like to create things that tell stories.
Tell me a bit about your upbringing and where you’re from?
I’m a Dominican ghetto superstar from Los Sures (Williamsburg), Brooklyn. I had a pretty similar upbringing to many other POC queer boys growing up in Brooklyn, NY. It was tough, and it shaped me into the tough-skinned Latino boy who is always ready for anything that I am.
What’s your personal theme song?
“All Night Long” by SWV
What’s your connection to Awake?
I’ve known Angelo for over fifteen years, he’s like an older brother and a mentor.
What does Awake represent to you?
The grit and chic-ness of NY streetwear. A space for the POC youth to know they belong.
Can you speak to the importance and influence of Carhartt WIP and workwear in general to NY style and streetwear culture as a whole?
I think workwear is something that, as immigrants to this country, we grew up with. Growing up in our society, we learned to take what was looked down upon and make it chic. It has become a staple in everyone’s wardrobe.
How would you describe your personal style?
Premium Trash.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?
Keep it cute and keep it mute. If you don’t have anything good to say, just stay shut!
Nevaskimp
Who are you and what do you do?
My name is Brandon Scott James, also known as Nevaskimp. I’m an athlete and an up-and-coming creative entity! “I’m the Bronx Jay-Z” and “Jamaica’s Ace Boogie from Paid in Full”. I reside Uptown, in the Bronx, on Gunhill and White Plains road. Word of advice: if you ain’t from here, don’t come here.
Tell me a bit about your upbringing and where you’re from?
Jamaica-born and New York-raised is a wicked mix for sure, but we make it happen out here. I was conceived in Buff Bay, Jamaica and I moved here from the countryside around seven. I moved straight into the fire, from a ghetto yute to a Bronx bomber.
What do you feel the best skating in?
I feel the best skating in well-made clothes… simple. I’m not so flashy all the time though. I keep it simple and drippy just always switch it up properly. When I’m filming clips I’ll put on what I know is gonna stand out to the viewers. I started a wave now I be seeing clones out here.
What is the significance of La Comunidad to you?
I love mi people dem!
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?
Best advice I ever got was, “If you do something well, never do it for free”. My advice to people out there is, “You dream till you die so chase em dreams till you die”!
What inspires you?
My mom, my peers, my OG Angelo, my best friend, Black people, Shottaz, Vybz Kartel, shout out Lucien Clarke.
Credits
Photography Mario Sorrenti
Fashion Alastair McKimm
Hair Bob Recine
Make-up Frank B at Home Agency
Nail technician Honey at Exposure using Londontown Perfecting Nail Veil
Lighting technician Lars Beaulieu
Photography assistance Javier Villegas and Brett Ross
Digital technician Kotaro Kawashima
Fashion assistance Madison Matusich and Jermaine Daley
Hair assistance Le’Kema Allman
Make-up assistance Natsuka Hirabayashi
Production Katie Fash and Layla Néméjanski
On set production Steve Sutton
Production assistance William Cipos
Models Annette Cruz, Nevaskimp, Fatima B, Raul Lopez, Ray Morales, Rakim, Jon Gray, Victor Vegas
All clothing AWAKE NY X CARHARTT WIP
Jewellery models’ own