And just like that, another year on Planet Mode flies by, leaving us a little frazzled from the frenzy but still hungry for more. Of course, while we enjoy a brief moment of reprieve before the onslaught of drama, glamour and insatiably chic leather goods resumes, we’re taking a not-so-distant trip down memory lane with a little help from those that lived it. Yes, the very team that bought you hot-shit coverage of every rapper-splashed runway, micro-micro trend and fashion-adjacent crossover have taken some time out of their breathless schedules to indulge you in some first-hand favourites. From Pharrell’s Jay-Z-headlined fash-tival sur le Pont Neuf and Phoebe Phoebe’s mumsy comeback to Haider Ackermann’s couture outing and some naughty swimwear care of Daniel Lee’s Burberry.
Alastair McKimm, editor-in-chief
My fashion highlights this year were the one of ones. Demna, Pharrell, Sabato, Marc, Raf, Miuccia, Phoebe, Matthieu, Ludovic, Pieter, Duran, Rick and Rei.
Olivia Singer, global editorial director
Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton debut was truly one of the most astonishing fashion moments I’ve ever witnessed, let alone this year. Of course, you couldn’t move for world-famous names on that world-famous bridge – Jay Z! Rihanna! LeBron! Beyoncé! Kim! Zendaya! Rocky! Tyler! – but, more remarkably, there was a feeling of community support and respect for Pharrell’s cultural impact through their presence; a genuine affinity between the people in attendance and his universe rather than just a hefty stream of zeros on a cheque. That authentic energy was apparent on the runway too: Dave, Stefano Pilati, Gabriel Moses, Clipse(!) all turned out for him dressed in camouflage prints and Henry Taylor embroidery; in a broadly articulated wardrobe of LV eclecticism coloured by Canal Street spirit. It was the sort of lineup that even LVMH money can’t simply buy and one that reflected Pharrell’s respect for his peers. Also, not to sound too much like his personal PR, but I loved that in the days following he turned up for other shows, too: Kenzo, Comme, Loewe, Junya (which, with a 9am Saturday slot on the schedule, is always for hardcore fans). He dressed in their designs, had his photo taken in the front row. He knew that week he was taking the spotlight, and so he was sharing it around a bit. There was something he said in some of his interviews that has really stuck with me: “When the sun shines on you, what will you do with that light?” I thought that was one of the best things I’ve heard this year – not just in fashion, but anywhere. I’m excited to see what he’ll do with it.
Osman Ahmed, fashion features director
The fierce, extreme androgyny of Saint Laurent’s AW23 women’s and men’s shows set the blueprint for how I wanted to dress in 2023 — and embodied the transformative power of a fashion show.
Sylvia Hong, head of video
Just in general, Loewe killed it this year.
Danil Boparai, social media director
Colin Jones’ show-stealing walk at Margiela still lives rent-free in my head, but the moment that really stuck with me is Paloma Elsesser winning Model of the Year, a positive light-at-the-end-of-the-tunnel fashion moment after an incredibly turbulent year for us all – capped off with her iconic interview with i-D backstage!
Mahoro Seward, senior fashion features editor
It’s a tough toss-up between Gwyneth Paltrow’s court looks and the handbags held in the crook of the elbow for Miu Miu AW23. I haven’t held my own bags any other way since.
Louis Prier Tisdall, associate fashion editor
Kristen Stewart’s Chanel tuxedo at the Met Gala. I don’t really follow the Met Gala, but this stood out to me because she looks so good! And Duran Lantink’s runway shows. I think they just feel optimistic to me, and we always need that.
Mona Bakht, junior social producer
Damon Albarn at Burberry SS24 confessing that pickle brine is his ultimate hangover cure – incredible and also extremely relatable. (I love pickles.) And the ethereal Taylor Russell in that wonderful metal coat at Loewe SS24 in Paris whilst talking about singing Björk for her karaoke tune. So major!
Tom George, staff writer
Daniel Lee’s Burberry speedos are my Roman Empire.
Frankie Dunn, international editor
I’ve been loving all of the dogs in campaigns this year – the ones starring alongside Jennie for Jacquemus especially. Hoping for more animals, less animal products, in fashion for 2024.
Róisín Lanigan, editor
I’m gonna go with Phoebe Philo’s return, a win for girls with mummy issues everywhere.
James Parkes, social editor
The return of skinny jeans.
Jisun Lee, i-D Korea social editor
I couldn’t take my eyes off Blackpink’s style at Coachella.
Karen Nippashi, i-D Japan social editor
From the Super Bowl half-time performance in Loewe to the all-denim look at Pharrell’s first Louis Vuitton show, Rihanna proved that she’ll always be a style icon.
Joe Bobowicz, contributing writer
Without a doubt, Olly Shinder’s collection for Fashion East. I may or may not have walked in the show, but it really encapsulated so much of the subculture and community I live for. From the Wolfgang Tillmans-produced soundtrack to the subtle flourishes on each design, the show felt like a playful addition to London’s lineage of queer creativity, merging hyper-contemporary fetish with an almost obsessive attention to detail. Leather cuffs with gingham trims? J’adore. Polar white fireman jacket styled with long football stockings? J’adore.
Georgina Bacchus, global managing director
My favourite fashion moments demonstrate an obsession with celebrity that I didn’t realise I harboured. Jamie Dornan for Loewe firmly put the Puzzle Fold tote on my radar, but my favourite fashion moment was Pamela Anderson taking Paris fresh-faced and wearing that suit from The Row. She will be on my personal mood board for most of 2024.
Alex LeRose, associate creative director
After following Alex Consani for the past two years, her i-D cover felt like a triumphant moment in 2023. Other things that stick out are Juergen shooting Maggie Smith for Loewe and perhaps, most important one for me, was seeing Heather Gay from the Real Housewives of Salt Lake City wearing Chopova Lowena on the show.
Songin Han, i-D Korea editor
When Louis Vuitton held a show on Seoul’s Jamsu Bridge! Despite the freezing cold, the moment Jung Ho-yeon started walking, the 795m bridge transformed into a runway and all the noise disappeared. For me, it was the most memorable moment of 2023!
Douglas Greenwood, contributing editor
Perhaps it’s the actor’s strike (justifiably) starving us of key red-carpet moments for a big chunk of this year, but I’ve not found many Hollywood actors turning looks in the 2023 movie calendar. Instead, it was the comparatively less impacted European queens who had their moment – and none more than Balenciaga-repped French actor Isabelle Huppert. When most women hit 60, their stylists pivot to an unremarkable wardrobe, but at 70 years old, Isabelle’s red carpet moments courtesy of Demna have been spiky, sexy and dangerous. She wore the pantaboots to the SS24 show, was dripped in metallics in Venice and made modesty sexy (crushed velvet!) in Marrakech. She rightfully earns the title of being every gay man’s sexiest woman alive.